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in the snow Couples

The beauty of Japan is not always immediate. As a vegetable bitter or a glass of red wine, he must try several times to Tokyo (东京) to really appreciate, worn behind the concrete, small nooks full of charm. Even Kyoto (京都), the historic capital, thousands mixture temples, shops pachinkos and dilapidated buildings. But there are magic moments, often ephemeral : of cherry blossoms in a countryside desert, a lost temple in the forest , or a neighborhood park aflame with autumn colors of at daybreak. So I visited one morning in February, the temples of Nikko (日光) during a snowfall.

The city of Nikko is located in the foothills at the north end of the Kanto plain (东京), a hundred miles from Tokyo. The history of the place begins in the 8th century when a hermitage founded by a famous Buddhist monk. It becomes for several centuries a place of training monks, before sinking into obscurity until the 17th century. The city was chosen for the mosolée Ieayasu Tokugawa (徳 川 家 康), the general who succeeded in unifying Japan. He was buried in 1617, and it was during this year that his little son, Tokugawa Iemitsu (徳 川 家 光) started construction of the shrine and mausoleum can be visited even today.

Even without the charm of a snowfall, Nikko, Kamakura with (镰仓), one of two historic sites essential for the Tokyo area. Yet his style is typical: monuments dearest to the heart of Japanese aesthetics often stripped. They highlight the natural elements and the subtlety of the composition is paramount. The temples of Nikko have instead been decorated to excess by the most skilled craftsmen of the day in vivid color, and style rather inspired by China. That is probably why some Japanese despise these temples. Yet the contrast between these works scult in detail and the beautiful cedar forest is particularly enjoyable. The impression is left without probably closer to the Palatine Chapel in Palermo as Zen gardens of Kyoto, but you can spend hours admiring the details of the bas-reliefs, with a thought for the fifteen thousand workers who built together for two years . And five minutes from Japanese television easily persuade the reader that the exuberance and colors are also a facet of culture.

The main monument is the site Toshogu (东 照 宫,) mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu. It is located in a beautiful forest which is an air of mystery in fog, or, as in this beautiful morning, under the snow. One approach by a long path that has on its left, a 5-storey pagoda at the original structure: its axis is not fixed to the ground but suspended, as a counterweight in case of earthquake, a solution recovery thereafter in some modern buildings earthquake resistant. With snow falling, we expect to see emerge a pack of wolves or maybe Oni (ogre local) from behind the trees. After joining the first door you can see on the left the three monkeys carved in wood representing the Buddhist doctrine "does not see evil, hear no evil, if not evil." They are all in Japanese stereotypes, and like the Mona Lisa, I confess have been slightly disappointed by the crowd around them and their small size.

But the rest of the complex is superb, and this snowy morning, bright colors allayed by snow sublime leave an impression. The contrast between the smooth sculptures and bas-relief of the rough texture of the powder is striking. Light and bright colors give an all Baroque splendor that we want to accompany by the Mozart Requiem. The first gate of the complex is Youmeimon (阳明 门). It is the richest of the complex, Legend has it that the pillars be mounted upside down because the artisan was afraid to make the gods jealous if it realizes a work too perfect. The wall right of the door is decorated with beautiful colored sculptures overhanging stone lanterns. Going up another staircase, you come through another door, the Koreimon (唐门), also very nice, the main sanctuary.

A small path on the right lets get to the inner sanctum (Okusha 奥 社) by a staircase in the forest-like mystery. Although the design is less dramatic, like entering the Holy of Holies, in this case the fall of the Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, deserves ascension. The mausoleum is a very Japanese simplicity that contrasts with the exuberant decoration of Toshogu.

Nikko is also surrounded by beautiful mountains, Lake Chuzenji (中 禅寺 湖) formed after a lava flow that blocked the valley, the famous waterfalls Kegon (華厳 の 滝), and Marsh Senjogahara (戦場ヶ原), very enjoyable from June The area deserves two or three days.

You can continue reading this account of the fall in Japan .

Practical Information

The site of the temples is located off the main street of the city after crossing the river on a hill in the forest. Those who arrive by train take the right, and walk about thirty minutes or take the bus (platforms 1 and 2 until the station Shinkyo 神 桥 (Y190, 1.60 Euro).

It is possible to make the journey much more enjoyable by taking the special service "Tobu Specia" that will allow you to travel through the endless VIP suburb north of Tokyo (1:50, Y2720, 22.60 Euro). Change is sometimes necessary à Shimoimaichi (下今市). Le voyage est plus court et les sièges plus comfortables que le train classique de la ligne Tobu (Tobu Isesaki Line Rapid, 2h04, Y1320 11 Euro départ toutes les heures environ).

Les voyageurs au budget généreux voudront peut-être passer la nuit dans le « Classic Hotel » Nikko Kaneya (Nikko Kanaya Hotel) Les autres pourront aussi se rendre dans la populaire et sympathique station thermale de Kinugawa-Onsen (Kinugawa Onsen), à quelques minutes de train (de 20 à 30 minutes, correspondance à Shimoimaichi, Y300, 2.5 Euros).

The city is also served by a JR station, the service is much less convenient: 45 minutes from Utsunomiya (宇 都 宫).

The site of the Nikko Tourist Association (http://www.nikko-jp.org/english/) provides detailed information in English.