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in the snow Couples

The beauty of Japan is not always immediate. As a vegetable bitter or a glass of red wine, he must try several times to Tokyo (东京) to really appreciate, worn behind the concrete, small nooks full of charm. Even Kyoto (京都), the historic capital, thousands mixture temples, shops pachinkos and dilapidated buildings. But there are magic moments, often ephemeral : of cherry blossoms in a countryside desert, a lost temple in the forest , or a neighborhood park aflame with autumn colors of at daybreak. So I visited one morning in February, the temples of Nikko (日光) during a snowfall.

The city of Nikko is located in the foothills at the north end of the Kanto plain (东京), a hundred miles from Tokyo. The history of the place begins in the 8th century when a hermitage founded by a famous Buddhist monk. It becomes for several centuries a place of training monks, before sinking into obscurity until the 17th century. The city was chosen for the mosolée Ieayasu Tokugawa (徳 川 家 康), the general who succeeded in unifying Japan. He was buried in 1617, and it was during this year that his little son, Tokugawa Iemitsu (徳 川 家 光) started construction of the shrine and mausoleum can be visited even today.

Even without the charm of a snowfall, Nikko, Kamakura with (镰仓), one of two historic sites essential for the Tokyo area. Yet his style is typical: monuments dearest to the heart of Japanese aesthetics often stripped. They highlight the natural elements and the subtlety of the composition is paramount. The temples of Nikko have instead been decorated to excess by the most skilled craftsmen of the day in vivid color, and style rather inspired by China. That is probably why some Japanese despise these temples. Yet the contrast between these works scult in detail and the beautiful cedar forest is particularly enjoyable. The impression is left without probably closer to the Palatine Chapel in Palermo as Zen gardens of Kyoto, but you can spend hours admiring the details of the bas-reliefs, with a thought for the fifteen thousand workers who built together for two years . And five minutes from Japanese television easily persuade the reader that the exuberance and colors are also a facet of culture.

The main monument is the site Toshogu (东 照 宫,) mausoleum of Tokugawa Ieyasu. It is located in a beautiful forest which is an air of mystery in fog, or, as in this beautiful morning, under the snow. One approach by a long path that has on its left, a 5-storey pagoda at the original structure: its axis is not fixed to the ground but suspended, as a counterweight in case of earthquake, a solution recovery thereafter in some modern buildings earthquake resistant. With snow falling, we expect to see emerge a pack of wolves or maybe Oni (ogre local) from behind the trees. After joining the first door you can see on the left the three monkeys carved in wood representing the Buddhist doctrine "does not see evil, hear no evil, if not evil." They are all in Japanese stereotypes, and like the Mona Lisa, I confess have been slightly disappointed by the crowd around them and their small size.

But the rest of the complex is superb, and this snowy morning, bright colors allayed by snow sublime leave an impression. The contrast between the smooth sculptures and bas-relief of the rough texture of the powder is striking. Light and bright colors give an all Baroque splendor that we want to accompany by the Mozart Requiem. The first gate of the complex is Youmeimon (阳明 门). It is the richest of the complex, Legend has it that the pillars be mounted upside down because the artisan was afraid to make the gods jealous if it realizes a work too perfect. The wall right of the door is decorated with beautiful colored sculptures overhanging stone lanterns. Going up another staircase, you come through another door, the Koreimon (唐门), also very nice, the main sanctuary.

A small path on the right lets get to the inner sanctum (Okusha 奥 社) by a staircase in the forest-like mystery. Although the design is less dramatic, like entering the Holy of Holies, in this case the fall of the Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu, deserves ascension. The mausoleum is a very Japanese simplicity that contrasts with the exuberant decoration of Toshogu.

Nikko is also surrounded by beautiful mountains, Lake Chuzenji (中 禅寺 湖) formed after a lava flow that blocked the valley, the famous waterfalls Kegon (華厳 の 滝), and Marsh Senjogahara (戦場ヶ原), very enjoyable from June The area deserves two or three days.

You can continue reading this account of the fall in Japan .

Practical Information

The site of the temples is located off the main street of the city after crossing the river on a hill in the forest. Those who arrive by train take the right, and walk about thirty minutes or take the bus (platforms 1 and 2 until the station Shinkyo 神 桥 (Y190, 1.60 Euro).

It is possible to make the journey much more enjoyable by taking the special service "Tobu Specia" that will allow you to travel through the endless VIP suburb north of Tokyo (1:50, Y2720, 22.60 Euro). Change is sometimes necessary à Shimoimaichi (下今市). Le voyage est plus court et les sièges plus comfortables que le train classique de la ligne Tobu (Tobu Isesaki Line Rapid, 2h04, Y1320 11 Euro départ toutes les heures environ).

Les voyageurs au budget généreux voudront peut-être passer la nuit dans le « Classic Hotel » Nikko Kaneya (Nikko Kanaya Hotel) Les autres pourront aussi se rendre dans la populaire et sympathique station thermale de Kinugawa-Onsen (Kinugawa Onsen), à quelques minutes de train (de 20 à 30 minutes, correspondance à Shimoimaichi, Y300, 2.5 Euros).

The city is also served by a JR station, the service is much less convenient: 45 minutes from Utsunomiya (宇 都 宫).

The site of the Nikko Tourist Association (http://www.nikko-jp.org/english/) provides detailed information in English.

Straightener Lifetime Warranty

Some Westerners come to Japan come to a crusade to liberate the poor little Japanese women in their gallant men and macho society. They finally come to teach them Amouuur with a capital A. We understand that this self-appointed role is flattering, even if it sometimes struggles to see in the expatriate Casanovas of our time. And most of my women's colleges in the office plebiscite also certain qualities of men of their country, such as kindness, attention and patience, which far outweigh the lack of inflammatory statements and bouquets of roses. Clichés, the Japanese couples, like other countries, trying to balance love, material life and social requirements, with different constraints from those of the West, but not necessarily less successful.

stories couples often begin in adolescence. In Japan, high school years are the toughest in the education system: it is for children of the middle class with ambitions to integrate good university that offers them an enviable position in society. The crisis of adolescence, and discovering the opposite sex, is often pushed to higher education, early twenties. These young couples often remain a private matter: it is very rare to have his friend (e) to his parents before it is serious, and it is often not the evenings among friends. Japan is often presented as a society where the group is important, but seems that the Japanese defend with even more fury their "secret garden". This may partly explain the success of "love hotels", these institutions decoration flashy allowing young couples to spend some time together without the neighbors or family being informed. Japan knows no taboos also Christians, and it is common to wait several weeks or months that the relationship is genuine before spending a night together, nobody seems to want to postpone it until marriage, a practice, however, still in force in religious circles in the West.

Once finished studies and integration into successful business, you often start thinking about marriage. Some have already met their spouses at the university, especially in student associations, "circles". Others fall under the spell of an office colleague. Young employees often work long hours, and it does not leave much time to find a spouse. The youth therefore "go-kons (合コン), evenings in a bar mixed with an equal number of girls and boys from among their friends or colleagues, and hoping that some couples are formed. A good organizer of "go-kon" is a valued friend. Although the tradition is lost, there is also the "Omiai (お 見合い), the famous arranged marriages arranged by families. It turns the "CV" with photos, and meetings are held between potential partners. Mostly I heard this about this practice by friends living in the countryside, but now it seems very minor.

The court takes some time, and includes many "dates" (デート). The must-have Christmas Day , or you go out with spouse. All the fancy restaurants are booked months in advance. A Valentine's Day, women give chocolates to their beloved, and at the "White Day", a month later, the man must give a gift twice the value. Many couples choose not to live together once married and remain in their housing unattached or with their parents until marriage.

Marriage (Kekkon, 结婚) may be celebrated in various ways: there is the traditional ceremony at a Shinto shrine, but the Christian ceremonies, which are reminiscent of American films Romantic into the blond priest, also have much success. The story goes that false priests, teachers of English or bar owners in week officiating at the ceremony. The great Japanese wedding brings family, colleagues and relatives of the newlyweds. Some young couples prefer a more intimate wedding in a restaurant with only close family and good friends. Marriage to the mayor is a mere formality, which takes place at the box office without ceremony.

children out of wedlock are not yet entered in the customs in Japan, although recently there equality of illegitimate children before law. Contraception is less sophisticated than in the West, the pill is not widespread and bad press. Many couples marry on a "dekichatta Kekkon" (でき ちゃった 結婚), that is to say, once a pregnant woman. The term has a connotation of "marriage after a mistake." It is certainly celebrated in a hurry, often without ceremony, despite the efforts of wedding professionals who promote the "sazukarikon (授かり 婚), or marriage" priceless ", and offer turnkey appropriate ceremonies. Everyone pretends not to notice that child was born six months after marriage, and very often at the birth of the charming, all is forgotten. I think the situation for half of all couples. I then asked if some do it voluntarily chose not to avoid having to "negotiate" the marriage with the families. As the Japanese have little to their spouses before marriage, some parents become aware of a spouse, birth of the future child, and marriage at the same time. During pregnancy, which is more medicalized in France, women traditionally spend the last weeks with their families, leaving the husband alone at home. This allows them to be "pampered" by their mother, and to better prepare the birth. This may seem shocking, but it's certainly convenient.

The status of women in the workplace is changing. Traditionally, girls were leaving their jobs after marriage, but this is very marginal now. It seems cons it is always preferable to marriage to resign if their spouse works in the same company, which does not go to another company. Escape the gossip of the company is probably a big motivation in this case. Virtually all women continue at least until the birth of their first child, and many choose to continue working even after the first child born. With the decline of the population, women's work is a necessity for businesses. However, this is rarely first class career, prompting some "business women" to postpone marriage until very late. Some organizations, such as hospitals, nurseries offer to their employees, but even in private, many now continue their careers, leaving their children in public crèches (takujisho, 托 児 所). There are of course, especially in big cities, waiting lists. In addition to empowerment, motivation to continue working are also economic: wages fell sharply during the crisis years and lifetime employment is not guaranteed: a second income helps limit risk. Families and young fathers are also put to work caring for children. Japan has at least one good side with respect to Europe: it is possible to find quality prepared meals correct very low price , either take away or restaurant, which can provide a woman employed to prepare the family meal every night. Japan

lack of children, and some attribute this, perhaps naively, the low frequency of intercourse in marriage. Japanese couples rather put forward the significant cost that it represents: the housing is expensive. If the restaurants are good markets, supermarkets are more expensive than in Europe. The coverage does not cover all medical expenses. And especially education is very expensive: schools and private universities are very common and are not, unlike France, subsidized. Taxation is also less favorable to families in France. An additional child can make the difference between a comfortable middle class existence and a life for lean months. Finally, the "career women" often deferring their marriage after 35 years, which does not promote fertility ..

Traditionally, the woman manages the finances of the couple and the husband leaves a bit of pocket money (okozukai, お 小遣い) for his personal needs. It seems that this is still a fairly general rule, and it certainly gives women a prominent place in domestic affairs. Advertisers often turn most women when it comes to selling the family. The educational journey is more stringent in Japan than in France, and it is not easy to move in during children's school: they would lose the benefit of their enrollment in a good school. So there is a common situation of "couple distance" (tanshinfunin, 単 身 赴任) where the woman stays in a city, the husband goes to work in another, returning the best all weekend, but more often every month. It is well accepted in general. The Japanese keep in effect no doubt that most Europeans, a little freedom. It is not uncommon out with friends or colleagues themselves once married. Japanese companies require many of their employees and foster cohesion in organizing evenings between colleges, which does not facilitate family life. These nocturnal activities are less frequent in recent years because companies do not spend more systematically note fees. I have heard of evenings weekly or even monthly, that drinking daily.

Divorces (rikon, 离婚) are increasingly common in Japan even if they stay it seems a bit less common in the West: Some couples seem to prefer delay it until the children are away from home, which could explain the recent fashion for "divorces elderly." Do not believe all Japanese couples are bound to drift: the most mature couples that I met seemed happy, or at least found a way of life that suited both spouses. Young couples that I attended seemed to most modern and slightly different French couples: a Japanese friend has adapted his career to promote that of his wife and young dads seem to do much despite their efforts to work invasive deal their children.

References

The following chart published by the Japanese authorities indicates the proportion of arranged marriages (お 見合い 結婚) and love marriages (恋爱 结婚). This was reversed in the mid 60s, and only 6% of marriages are arranged cons now nearly 70% in 1930. link to the graphic

Another article of this blog deals specifically international couples with a spouse Japanese .

You can continue reading these tips for expatriate managers in Japan

Desmume Roms Heartgold

Japanese Red leaves

The joys of the seasons are at the heart of Japanese life. the cherry blossoms in spring are better known, but autumn has its pleasures: the end of November, parks and forests in Japan are covered with beautiful colors More than in Europe, then there is beautiful sunny days in the light-colored leaves on a background of blue sky and clean air is an important time of year in Japan. She deserves a trip, as much as was moist and fireworks, or spring and trees flowers.

The tradition of walking in the forest fall date of the Heian era, where Momijigari (紅葉狩り), literally "chasing the maple" was a fine hobby. Maples (红叶 Momiji), particularly species specific to Japan, take a bright red called remarkable Koyo (黄叶), or "red leaf". The gardens and temples include mostly, plus cherry trees that are a delight for walkers spring, a few maple trees which make the walkers fall. The beautiful reds are all easier to enjoy the cooler weather of autumn gives less freedom to plant their web revelers picnic under the trees, and there drunk while listening to a tinny karaoke. The atmosphere is collected and melancholy, which perfectly suits the season.

It will therefore be preferably in a fine Japanese sites with Traditional Garden: A trip to Nikko or Hakone will be unforgettable, and this is probably one of the best times to visit Kyoto, even if Accommodation must be booked several months in advance. The temples of the district calm Arashiyama (岚山), especially the temple of Joojakkooji (常寂 光 字) offer great views, but one of the most fantastic gardens is the Temple Tofukuji (东 福寺). The beautiful building Kyomizudera (京都) on the hills of Kyoto, unforgettable at the time of cherry blossoms, is as beautiful in the fall. A Uji (宇 治), the Temple of Mimurodoji (三室 戸 寺) is also of great colors, Situated in a secluded place, he is immune from the crowd. In the Kansai, Nara City (奈良) also deserves a visit to this period.

If you enjoy the most beautiful gardens, or if you prefer a more aesthetic daily, a simple walk in the suburban a large Japanese city you will see some beautiful maple sometimes caught between a wall, a power pole and telephone line. The smallest neighborhood park with two benches and old-fashioned rocking horse plastic take great colors. Even this small square at the feet of two huge buildings of concrete cube downtown worth a visit. The setting is less spectacular than the temples as tourist guides, but ephemeral urban poetry is still more touching.

Fall is also a fantastic season for a walk in the woods of Japan. Valley Ome (青梅), a few kilometers from Tokyo, is a great place for hiking . You can also, if you can book, make a stay in an onsen lost in the wilderness of nature. The cool air of late autumn makes it extremely pleasant bathing in rotenburo (露天 风 吕, outdoor pools).

After these escapades in nature, you'll probably be hungry, and you can enjoy some chestnuts, or a "Grilled Sanma (焼き 秋刀魚), the seasonal fish and rice with matsutake (松茸), one of Japan's most famous mushrooms. The first frost of the season are also an opportunity to start the season nabés (锅), stews cooked on the table in a large pot (nabe in Japanese) in the presence of guests.

You can continue reading this account of hiking in the mountains Japanese .

Practical Information

Accommodation: Kyoto hotels can sometimes be crowded in high season. Cons, it will be easy to find a hotel in Osaka , which is only 40 minutes by train from Kyoto and Nara 30 minutes. Similarly, in case of difficulty booking a hotel in Nikko, spa nearby to Kinugawa-onsen has a large hotel park.

Access to the valley of Ome: Chuo Line (中央 线) from Shinjuku (新宿) to Tachikawa (立 川), then line Ome (青梅 线), changing trains at Ome (青梅) pour prendre le train à destination de Oku-Tama (Okutama). Il existe aussi des trains directs de Shinjuku à Ome.

Accès au temple Tofukuji: ligne JR Nara (JR Nara Line), gare de Tofukuji (Tōfukuji station) ou ligne Keihan (Keihan Line), gare de Tofukuji (Tōfukuji station) depuis Osaka yodoyabashi (Yodoyabashi) ou Kyoto Keihansanjo (Article Keihan). Entrée au temple Y400 (environ 3 Euros), adresse: Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture Honmati 15-778 Honcho tozan-Ku Kyoto-Shi Kyoto-Fu

Accès au temple Joojakkooji: 15 minutes de marche depuis la gare JR Saga-Arashiyama (Saga Arashiyama) ligne Sanyo Honsen (JR 山陰本線), 20 minutes, Y230 (environ 1.7 Euros). Accès aussi possible depuis le terminus du tramway KeifukiDenkiTetstudo (Kyoto Kyushu Electric Railway) gare de Yarashiyama. Le tramway se prend sur l'avenue Shijo dans le centre de Kyoto à la gare de Shijo-Omiya (Shizyouoomiya), 22 minutes, Y200 (environ 1.5 Euros).

Accès au temple Mimurodo-Ji: 菟 Valley Road, Uji, Kyoto Prefecture Shiga 21Todo, Uji-shi, Kyoto. Y500 entrance, 5 minutes walk from the station on the line Mimurodo Keihan Uji (京阪 宇 治 线), correspondence Chuushojima (中 书 岛) from Kyoto or Osaka. From the station take the road perpendicular to the Keihan line, which passes shortly after under the JR line, toward the mountains.

sites offer a Japanese weather forecasting service for the appearance of red leaves. That of Yahoo Japan is located at the following address: http://kouyou.yahoo.co.jp/ . Like the cherry blossoms, the season moves from north to south. The most beautiful floral observed in the north the country from mid October. Areas of Tokyo and Kyoto are the most vivid colors around late November.